The incredible effectiveness of herbal hair colours comes from a trio of potent botanicals—Henna for rich colour and conditioning, Amla for strengthening and darkening, and Indigo for deep, cool tones—that work together to nourish hair while providing beautiful, lasting colour.
As you examine the ingredient list on a box of herbal hair dye, you may encounter a rich tapestry of exotic-sounding plants that spark curiosity. Each ingredient plays a vital role in the formulation, but several key components stand out for their remarkable contributions to the dye’s effectiveness. Renowned botanicals such as henna, amla, and indigo are more than just colouring agents, they have long been revered as potent hair treatments, used for centuries to naturally enrich and beautify hair. These time-honoured ingredients not only impart vibrant hues but also strengthen and condition the hair, leaving it looking and feeling healthier, shinier, and more radiant than ever before.
Henna: The original hair conditioner and colourant?
Henna (Lawsonia inermis) is the most famous of all herbal hair treatments. The lawsone molecule in henna leaves binds directly to the keratin in your hair, staining it a range of shades from fiery orange to deep auburn. But its benefits go far beyond colour.
- Strengthens the hair shaft: “By coating the hair, henna makes each strand thicker and more resilient to breakage,” dermatologist Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra tells Health Shots.
- Adds incredible shine: It smooths the hair’s outer cuticle, creating a smooth surface that reflects light beautifully.
- A scientific look: A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology confirms that lawsone has a high affinity for protein, which is why henna binds so effectively to hair, providing long-lasting colour and conditioning.
Indigo: The secret to achieving deep browns and blacks?
On its own, henna creates red tones. So, how do herbal dyes achieve such beautiful browns and even black tones? The answer is Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria). When used after a henna treatment, indigo deposits a blue-black dye that combines with the red of the henna to create a range of brunette shades.

- A two-step process: “For the deepest colours, you would traditionally apply a complete henna treatment first, rinse, and then use an indigo treatment”, suggests Dr Chhabra. Many modern herbal hair colours pre-mix the henna and indigo for a more straightforward, one-step process.
- A natural alternative: This henna-indigo combination is nature’s way of creating cool, dark tones without the need for synthetic black dyes, which can sometimes contain harsh chemicals.
Amla: The ultimate hair health booster?
Amla or Indian Gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica) is a true superfruit for hair. While it doesn’t lend an intense colour on its own, it plays a vital supporting role in herbal hair colour formulations. It is packed with Vitamin C, tannins, and antioxidants that offer a wealth of benefits.
- Enhances colour: “Amla can help tone down the red of henna, contributing to more fabulous, more ashy shades of brown”, advises the dermatologist.
- Promotes hair growth: The nutrients in amla nourish the hair follicles, promoting stronger and healthier hair growth.
- Reduces greying: According to Pharmacognosy Research, certain herbs, including amla, can help hair appear darker and reduce the appearance of grey strands over time. You can find more on the best ingredients for herbal hair colour.
When you choose a herbal hair colour, you’re not just dyeing your hair, you’re applying a powerful, plant-based treatment. This ancient trio of henna, indigo, and amla works in perfect harmony to deliver stunning colour and unparalleled nourishment, proving that the best beauty secrets have been growing in nature all along.
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